- PURPOSE AND SCOPE:
To evaluate smoothness appearance of seams in garments after
repeated home launderings. Any washable garment, whether durable press or not, may be
evaluated for seam smoothness using this method.
- PRINCIPLE:
Samples are subjected to standard home laundering practices. Appearance of
seams is rated in comparison with appropriate reference standards.
- REFERENCE:
AATCC Test Method 88B-2003, Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home
Laundering.
- APPARATUS:
4.1 Automatic washing machine - see 8.1
4.2 Automatic tumble dryer - see 8.1
4.3 Drip dry and line dry facilities
4.4 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent - see 8.2
4.5 Ballast of 92 x 92 cm (36 x 36 in.) hemmed pieced of bleached 100% cotton sheeting
or 50% polyester and 50% cotton bleached and mercerized poplin - see 8.3
4.6 Lighting and evaluation area in an otherwise darkened room
4.7 Standard AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for rating single an double
seams - see 8.4
- PROCEDURE:
5.1 Determine laundry method to be used, by either following the care
label instructions on garment or any other method as requested or agreed upon.
5.2 Fill the washing machine with water up to desired level and add 66 +/- 0.1 g of
1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent.
5.3 Add samples and enough ballast to make a 1.8 kg +/- 0.06 kg (4.00 +/- 0.13 lb.)
load.
5.4 Allow washing to proceed through final spin cycle. Remove samples immediately after
final spin cycle and place washed load (samples and ballast) in tumble dryer and set
temperature recommended on the care label, or as selected. Operate the dryer until total
load is dry. Remove immediately after machine stops. Avoid over drying.
5.5 To line or drip dry, hang each sample by two corners with the fabric length in
vertical direction. allow samples to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.
5.6 To screen dry, spread sample on a horizontal screen or perforated surface. Remove
wrinkles, but do not distort or stretch the sample. Allow to dry in still air at room
temperature.
5.7 Prior to evaluation, condition the specimens for a minimum of 4 hours at 21° +/- 1C
(70° +- 2F) temperature and 65% +/- 2% relative humidity. Hang samples from two corners
with fabric length in vertical direction to avoid distortion.
- EVALUATION:
6.1 Three trained observers should rate each test sample independently.
6.2 Overhead fluorescent light should be the only light source for the viewing board.
All other room lights should be turned off.
6.3 Mount sample on viewing board with seam in the vertical direction. Place
appropriate single or double needle standard seam smoothness (SS) replicas beside the
specimen to facilitate comparative rating.
6.4 Observer should stand directly in front of specimen 120 cm (4 ft.) away from the
board.
6.5 Confine observations to area influenced by seam. Disregard appearance of
surrounding fabric.
6.6 Assign numerical grade of photographic standard which most nearly matches seam
appearance in the test specimen.
6.7 Seam smoothness grade of SS-5 is equivalent to the appearance of Standard No. 5, the
best level of seam appearance; a seam smoothness of grade of SS-1 is equivalent to that of
Standard No. 1, which represents a very poor level of seam appearance.
- REPORT:
7.1 Average the nine observations made on each seam (such as side seam,
inseam, front placket, etc.) of each sample (three grades on each of three test
specimens). Report average for each area to the nearest tenth.
7.2 Report whether single or double needle seams were rated.
7.3 State washing procedure and drying procedure as well as type of dummy load. Any
deviations from stated procedure should be explained completely.
- NOTE:
8.1 Contact
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 tel:
919-549-8141; fax: 919-549-8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc.org
for model numbers and sources of currently approved washers and dryers.
8.2 1993 Standard Reference Detergent is available from
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research
Triangle Park, NC 27709 tel: 919-549-8141; fax: 919-549-8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc.org.
8.3 Ballast available from Testfabrics, Inc., P.O. Box 26, 415 Delaware St., W.
Pittston, PA 18643; tel: 570-603-0432; fax 570-603-0433 and Textile Innovators Corp.,
P.O. Box 8, Windsor, NC 27983; tel: 252-794-9703; fax: 252-794-9704.
8.4 ASTM Standards are available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., West Conshohocken, PA
19428; tel: 610-832-9500; fax: 610-832-9555.
