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JEWELRY SPECIFICATIONS - BEST / printable version
(Updated 21 February 2003)

A sample will be inspected in its entirety, i.e. quality of diamond(s) and/or stone(s), quality of mounting, precious metal content, stamping and tagging. Diamonds shall be graded for clarity and color per the Jewelry Cost Analysis Proposal Worksheet, based upon the Gemological Institute of America's (GIA's) diamond grading system.

The Following jewelry specifications are the minimum acceptable requirements for jewelry to be supplied under this contract. All jewelry supplied under these specifications shall either meet or exceed the following:

1. REQUIREMENTS FOR DIAMONDS:

  A. Acceptable Carat Weight Ranges:
    1/4 = 0.23 to 0.29 1 1/2 = 1.45 to 1.62
1/3 = 0.30 to 0.36 2 = 1.90 to 2.22
1/2 = 0.45 to 0.58 2 1/2 = 2.45 to 2.62
3/4 = 0.70 to 0.83 3 = 2.90 to 3.19
7/8 = 0.84 to 0.94
1 = 0.95 to 1.15
1 1/4 = 1.16 to 1.29
1 1/3 = 1.30 to 1.44

  B. Clarity: VS2 or better

  C. Color : G or better

  D. Cut: 
1.Round Diamonds: Must be well cut and proportioned. 
2. Fancy Shape Diamonds: Must be well cut and proportioned.
*Fancy shaped diamonds with unattractive or unbalanced cuts will be unacceptable.

2. ALL DIAMONDS:

  1. No knife-edge girdles or extremely thick girdles in the diamond. 
  2. No dark centers in the diamond which are the result of light leakage caused by too deep of a pavilion. 
  3. Round diamonds must have a table percentage between 52% and 67%. 
  4. Round diamonds must have crown angles no less than 30 degrees or greater than 38 degrees. 
  5. Diamonds must be good or better symmetry and polish. 
  6. No chips, breaks or fractures in the stone. 
  7. No laser drilled diamonds. 
  8. No treated (clarity enhanced ) diamonds including fracture filled treatment. 
  9. No diamonds will have strong fluorescence. 
  10. Culet size on diamond must be None - Medium. 
  11. On all items containing more than one diamond, the diamonds shall face up approximately the same size and color. 
  12. Diamonds must be properly seated, securely set and not loose.

3. REQUIREMENTS FOR MOUNTINGS, STAMPING and TAGGING:

The requirements for mountings, stamping and tagging are outlined in the following Appendices:

A. Appendix I - AAFES Specifications for Precious Metal: Mountings
B. Appendix II - AAFES Requirements for Stamping
C. Appendix III - AAFES Specifications for Tagging

4. Commonly found jewelry defects are listed in the Appendix IV - Glossary: Explanation of Defects.

5. Merchandise under "Best" specifications goes through inspection by IGI (International Gemological Institute), however, should AAFES need to perform a sampling inspection, AAFES will use "AAFES Double -Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection, 4.0 AQL." This sampling plan is derived from MIL-STD-105E or ANSI/ASQ Z 1.4, Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes.
 

JEWELRY SPECIFICATIONS - BETTER / printable version
(Updated 21 February 2003)

A sample will be inspected in its entirety, i.e. quality of diamond(s) and/or stone(s), quality of mounting, precious metal content, stamping and tagging. 

The following jewelry specifications are the minimum acceptable requirements for jewelry to be supplied under this contract. All jewelry supplied under these specifications shall either meet or exceed the following:

1. REQUIREMENTS FOR DIAMONDS:

  A. Acceptable Carat Weight Ranges:
    1/4 = 0.23 to 0.29 1 1/2 = 1.45 to 1.62
1/3 = 0.30 to 0.36 2 = 1.90 to 2.22
1/2 = 0.45 to 0.58 2 1/2 = 2.45 to 2.62
3/4 = 0.70 to 0.83 3 = 2.90 to 3.19
7/8 = 0.84 to 0.94
1 = 0.95 to 1.15
1 1/4 = 1.16 to 1.29
1 1/3 = 1.30 to 1.44

  B. Clarity: SI2 or better

  C. Color : J or better

  D. Cut: 
1.Round Diamonds: Must be well cut and proportioned. 
2. Fancy Shape Diamonds: Must be well cut and proportioned.
*Fancy shaped diamonds with unattractive or unbalanced cuts will be unacceptable.

2. ALL DIAMONDS:

  1. Diamonds shall be graded for clarity and color per the Jewelry Cost Analysis Proposal Worksheet, based upon the Gemological Institute of America's (GIA's) diamond grading system. 
  2. Diamonds shall be graded under 10 power (10x) binocular magnification. Color grading shall be accomplished under diffused cool-white fluorescence lighting using a Diamond Colorimeter and a master diamond color grading set certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). 
  3. No knife-edge girdles or extremely thick girdles in the diamond. 
  4. No dark centers in the diamond which are the result of light leakage caused by too deep of a pavilion. 
  5. Round diamonds must have a table percentage between 52% and 67%. 
  6. Round diamonds must have crown angles no less than 30 degrees or greater than 38 degrees. 
  7. Stone must be good or better symmetry and polish. 
  8. No chips, breaks or fractures in the diamonds. 
  9. No laser drilled diamonds. 
  10. No treated (clarity enhanced ) diamonds including fracture filled treatment. 
  11. On all items containing more than one diamond, the diamonds shall face up approximately the same size and color. 
  12. Diamonds must be properly seated, securely set and not loose.

3. ALL COLORED STONES:
  1. Colored stones shall be graded for clarity and color per the Jewelry Cost Analysis Proposal Worksheet. 
  2. All colored stones shall be of natural origin unless specified in the contract as being synthetic, simulated, or imitation. 
  3. Colored stones shall not have any eye-visible damage. 
  4. No colored stones which are enhanced by a non-permanent or superficial process shall be accepted. Oiling of emeralds is acceptable as it is industry practice. 
  5. Color, quality, and size of colored stones shall be equal to or better than specified on the Jewelry Cost Analysis Proposal Worksheet. 
  6. In any jewelry item containing more than one of the same colored stone, all stones shall be matching in color and size unless the design of the piece of jewelry is purposely made for variation. 
  7. Colored stones shall be graded under 10 power (10x) magnification or greater to determine authenticity of stones, enhancements and to determine durability problems. Colored stones shall be inspected under diffused cool-white fluorescence light by the unaided eye.

4. REQUIREMENTS FOR MOUNTINGS, STAMPING and TAGGING:

The requirements for mountings, stamping and tagging are outlined in the following Appendices:

  1. Appendix I - AAFES Specifications for Precious Metal: Mountings
  2. Appendix II - AAFES Requirements for Stamping
  3. Appendix III - AAFES Specifications for Tagging

5. RANDOM SAMPLING INSPECTION:

  1. Commonly found jewelry defects are listed in the Appendix IV - Glossary: Explanation of Defects. 
  2. All jewelry supplied under this contract with AAFES is subject to a random sampling inspection at an AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) of 4.0 using AAFES Double Sampling Plans for Normal Inspection - 4.0 AQL. Any deficiency in diamond and/or colored stone quality and/or mountings shall be considered quality defects and any deficiency in stamping and/or tagging shall be considered non-conformance. A shipment can fail for either quality and/or non-conformance. 
  3. Selected samples shall be inspected in their entirety, i.e. quality of diamond(s) and/or stone(s), quality of mounting, precious metal content, stamping and tagging, regardless of whether the inspection is pre-purchase or acceptance inspection. All inspections shall be accomplished with 10x magnification to identify natural gemstones, to assure compliance with the Federal Trade Commission's (FTC) Guidelines for the Jewelry Industry and to identify manufacturing defects.
     

JEWELRY SPECIFICATIONS - GOOD / printable version
(Updated 21 February 2003)

A sample will be inspected in its entirety, i.e. quality of diamond(s) and/or stone(s), quality of mounting, precious metal content, stamping and tagging. 

The following jewelry specifications are the minimum acceptable requirements for jewelry to be supplied under this contract. All jewelry supplied under these specifications shall either meet or exceed the following:

1. REQUIREMENTS FOR DIAMONDS:

  A. Acceptable Carat Weight Ranges:
    1/4 = 0.23 to 0.29 1 1/2 = 1.45 to 1.62
1/3 = 0.30 to 0.36 2 = 1.90 to 2.22
1/2 = 0.45 to 0.58 2 1/2 = 2.45 to 2.62
3/4 = 0.70 to 0.83 3 = 2.90 to 3.19
7/8 = 0.84 to 0.94
1 = 0.95 to 1.15
1 1/4 = 1.16 to 1.29
1 1/3 = 1.30 to 1.44

  B. Clarity: I3 or better

  C. Color : M or better

  D. Cut: Diamonds must be single cut (17 facets or more) and full cut (58 facets or more).

2. ALL DIAMONDS:

  1. Diamonds shall be graded for clarity and color per the Jewelry Cost Analysis Proposal Worksheet, based upon the Gemological Institute of America's (GIA's) diamond grading system. 
  2. Diamonds must show no signs of eye-visible damage. Stones must be whole and complete. 
  3. On all items containing more than one diamond, the diamonds shall face up approximately the same color and size. 
  4. Diamonds must be set table up. 
  5. No laser drilled, filled or treated diamonds are acceptable.

3. ALL COLORED STONES:
  1. Colored stones shall be graded for clarity and color per the Jewelry Cost Analysis Proposal Worksheet. 
  2. All colored stones shall be of natural origin unless specified in the contract as being synthetic, simulated, or imitation. 
  3. Colored stones shall not have any eye-visible damage. 
  4. No colored stones which are enhanced by a non-permanent or superficial process shall be accepted. Oiling of emeralds is acceptable as it is industry practice. 
  5. In any jewelry item containing more than one of the same colored stone, all stones shall be matching in color and size unless the design of the piece of jewelry is purposely made for variation.

4. REQUIREMENTS FOR MOUNTINGS, STAMPING and TAGGING:

The requirements for mountings, stamping and tagging are outlined in the following Appendices:

  1. Appendix I - AAFES Specifications for Precious Metal: Mountings
  2. Appendix II - AAFES Requirements for Stamping
  3. Appendix III - AAFES Specifications for Tagging

5. RANDOM SAMPLING INSPECTION:

  1. Commonly found jewelry defects are listed in the Appendix IV - Glossary: Explanation of Defects.
  2. All jewelry supplied under this contract with AAFES is subject to a random sampling inspection at an AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) of 6.5 using AAFES Double Sampling Plans for Normal Inspection- 6.5 AQL. Any deficiency in diamond and/or colored stone quality and/or mountings shall be considered quality defects and any deficiency in stamping and/or tagging shall be considered non-conformance. A shipment can fail for either quality and/or non-conformance. 
  3. Selected samples shall be inspected in their entirety, i.e. quality of diamond(s) and/or stone(s), quality of mounting, precious metal content, stamping and tagging, regardless of whether the inspection is pre-purchase or acceptance inspection. All inspections shall be accomplished with 10x magnification to identify natural gemstones, to assure compliance with the Federal Trade Commission's (FTC) Guidelines for the Jewelry Industry and to identify manufacturing defects.

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