The Exchange Test Method
A-15: Smoothness of Seams in Garments
After Repeated Home Laundering
Issue Date: 30 Apr 1993
Revision Date: 09/30/2011
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PURPOSE AND SCOPE:
To evaluate smoothness appearance of seams in garments after repeated home launderings. Any washable garment, whether durable press or not, may be evaluated for seam smoothness using this method.
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PRINCIPLE:
Samples are subjected to standard home laundering practices. Appearance of seams is rated in comparison with appropriate reference standards.
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REFERENCE:
AATCC Test Method 88B-2010, Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering.
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APPARATUS:
- 4.1 Automatic washing machine - see 8.1
- 4.2 Automatic tumble dryer - see 8.1
- 4.3 Drip dry and line dry facilities
- 4.4 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent - see 8.2
- 4.5 Ballast of 92 x 92 cm (36 x 36 in.) hemmed pieced of bleached 100% cotton sheeting or 50% polyester and 50% cotton bleached and mercerized poplin - see 8.3
- 4.6 Lighting and evaluation area in an otherwise darkened room
- 4.7 Standard AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas for rating single an double seams - see 8.4
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PROCEDURE:
- 5.1 Determine laundry method to be used, by either following the care label instructions on garment or any other method as requested or agreed upon.
- 5.2 Fill the washing machine with water up to desired level and add 66 +/- 0.1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent.
- 5.3 Add samples and enough ballast to make a 1.8 kg +/- 0.06 kg (4.00 +/- 0.13 lb.) load.
- 5.4 Allow washing to proceed through final spin cycle. Remove samples immediately after final spin cycle and place washed load (samples and ballast) in tumble dryer and set temperature recommended on the care label, or as selected. Operate the dryer until total load is dry. Remove immediately after machine stops. Avoid over drying.
- 5.5 To line or drip dry, hang each sample by two corners with the fabric length in vertical direction. allow samples to hang in still air at room temperature until dry.
- 5.6 To screen dry, spread sample on a horizontal screen or perforated surface. Remove wrinkles, but do not distort or stretch the sample. Allow to dry in still air at room temperature.
- 5.7 Prior to evaluation, condition the specimens for a minimum of 4 hours at 21° +/- 1C (70° +- 2F) temperature and 65% +/- 2% relative humidity. Hang samples from two corners with fabric length in vertical direction to avoid distortion.
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EVALUATION:
- 6.1 Three trained observers should rate each test sample independently.
- 6.2 Overhead fluorescent light should be the only light source for the viewing board. All other room lights should be turned off.
- 6.3 Mount sample on viewing board with seam in the vertical direction. Place appropriate single or double needle standard seam smoothness (SS) replicas beside the specimen to facilitate comparative rating.
- 6.4 Observer should stand directly in front of specimen 120 cm (4 ft.) away from the board.
- 6.5 Confine observations to area influenced by seam. Disregard appearance of surrounding fabric.
- 6.6 Assign numerical grade of photographic standard which most nearly matches seam appearance in the test specimen.
- 6.7 Seam smoothness grade of SS-5 is equivalent to the appearance of Standard No. 5, the best level of seam appearance; a seam smoothness of grade of SS-1 is equivalent to that of Standard No. 1, which represents a very poor level of seam appearance.
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REPORT:
- 7.1 Average the nine observations made on each seam (such as side seam, inseam, front placket, etc.) of each sample (three grades on each of three test specimens). Report average for each area to the nearest tenth.
- 7.2 Report whether single or double needle seams were rated.
- 7.3 State washing procedure and drying procedure as well as type of dummy load. Any deviations from stated procedure should be explained completely.
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NOTE:
- 8.1 Contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 tel: 919-549-8141; fax: 919-549-8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc.org for model numbers and sources of currently approved washers and dryers.
- 8.2 1993 Standard Reference Detergent is available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709 tel: 919-549-8141; fax: 919-549-8933; e-mail: orders@aatcc.org.
- 8.3 Ballast available from Testfabrics, Inc., P.O. Box 26, 415 Delaware St., W. Pittston, PA 18643; tel: 570-603-0432; fax 570-603-0433 and Textile Innovators Corp., P.O. Box 8, Windsor, NC 27983; tel: 252-794-9703; fax: 252-794-9704.
- 8.4 ASTM Standards are available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., West Conshohocken, PA 19428; tel: 610-832-9500; fax: 610-832-9555.